Ahluwalia RTW Spring 2024 – WWD

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Priya Ahluwalia went to the British Library to tell the stories of the hidden figures, focusing on the Algerian artist Baya Mahiddin, who inspired Pablo Picasso’s “Women of Algiers” painting.

Mahiddin’s work was heavily influenced by tribal art; She used a cluster of colorful shades that Ahluwalia adopted for her vibrantly sleek collection that played with fun elements like printed patchwork, soft silk and denim that looked like it was torn.

Florals hidden in secret spots were seen throughout the collection – in smooth colors and some in the form of brooches, using small mirrors embroidered on the fabric to create floral shapes.

“I was thinking about reflections – it’s very strange to see yourself in clothes but I wanted to play with that idea,” the designer said backstage.

“Flower arrangements were about giving people their flowers and appreciating people,” she added.

Ahluwalia has an eye for statement pieces that don’t scream and shout, with track suits and pants strutting down the runway like a beach club.

The British designer continued her collaboration with Ace and Tate for another season with the letter A on the hinges of the glasses, as well as creating an illusion print from acetate for the frames.

Grammy-nominated singer-songwriter Tom Tripp merged Ahluwalia’s soundtrack with a mix of styles, using music from the Black and South Asian diaspora, from Cicero Jones and Robert Johnson to contemporary music such as amapiano and remo samples.

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